Even if you call me heavy, I insist once again on how neglected Spanish designers have of us men. And it is not that I mean it, in the last edition of the Mercedes-Benz Madrid Fashion Week that ended yesterday, only three designers have remembered the "weaker sex" of the catwalks (that is, us).
In a rather boring
and incoherent Fashion Week, I have missed a more determined commitment to
trends and not so much a sample of supposed creative individualism that
misleads and highlights how lost this Spanish catwalk is in the international
context.
If the proposals
for women are, again, more of the same, those for men are unclassifiable. In my
opinion, only the collection of the designer Ion Fiz is saved. The rest will
not go down in the annals of Spanish fashion history.
One
more time I have to say that the Mercedes-Benz Madrid Fashion Week has
forgotten us (we, the men), just three of them have shown theirs proposals for
next spring / sumer have designed something for us, the other half of the
population . In a rather boring and incoherent Fashion Week I've missed a bet
more determined by trends and not much sign of so-called creative individualism
which misleads and puts in evidence the loss that this Spanish gateway is
located in the international context.
If
the proposals for women are, again, more the same thing, men´s are
unclassifiable. In my opinion is only saved the collection from designer Ion
Fiz. The rest will not go to the annals of the history of the Spanish fashion.
ANA
LOCKING
The frenetic
pace to which the fashion industry subjects designers is well known. And Ana
Locking talks about it or rather its opposite: that stopping to think, and
above all to think differently that, according to her, she is losing herself. That
is why his collection is based on creative destruction: torn fabrics,
unstructured tailoring, sequins that sparkle under scissor-cut chiffon. But it
also assumes a military aesthetic in the reconstruction and reworking.
Her proposals for men have no
connection with each other. They are a “totum revolutum” of ideas, colors,
textures with little coherence and, yes, a lot of imagination. I don't see any
man wearing anything from this designer on the streets next season.
The frenetic
pace that the fashion industry submits to designers is well known. And Ana
Locking speaks of this or perhaps in its opposite: according to her stopping is
to think, and especially thinking different is what we are losing. By that her
collection is based on the destruction creative: woven torn, tailoring
unstructured, sequin that glow low chiffon cut to scissors. But also assumes an
aesthetic officer in the reconstruction and reprocessing.
Her proposals for men have no
connection with each other. It sounds a "totum revolutum" of ideas,
colors and textures with little coherence and, Yes, lots of imagination. I
don't see any man wearing anything of Ana Locking next season on the streets.
ION
FIZ
The Yatch
Club collection that Ion Fiz has presented at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid
is a complete style exercise to go by boat. For the man it is the only proposal
that is worth taking. Swimsuits, caps and sunglasses line the catwalk alongside
shorts for the day or cocktail outfits for a deck party. The red and black
colors are interspersed with all kinds of blues, from light blue to navy. The
typical sailor stripes are not lacking in a series divided into two: sewing
'looks' and 'casual' garments.
All the garments are well
thought out for a comfortable, cool and elegant summer. Ion Fiz has opted for a
man with class and elegant but who dares with risky proposals without
extravagances.
The
collection Yatch Club that Ion Fiz has presented in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
Madrid is an exercise of full style full to go on a Cruise. It is the only
proposals worth to wear. Fantastic Swimwear, umbrellas, hats, caps and
sunglasses range on the catwalk next to Bermuda for the day or cocktail for a
party on deck. The colors red and black interspersed with all kind of blue from
the sky to the marine. Not missing the typical striped sailor in a series
divide in two: 'looks' of Couture and garments 'casual'. These latest make
reference to their second line with a new logo signed by Tutticonfetti, brand
of the Illustrator Marta Colomer, that portrays to the designer with a
Pincushion in the hands.
All the garments are well
designed for a comfortable, fresh and with elegance summer. Ion Fiz has opted
for a man with class and elegant, but who dares with risky proposals without
extravagances.
FRANCIS
MONTESINOS
With his now
usual flamenco show, Francis Montesinos introduced a spring-summer 2017
collection in which he dared with an androgynous attempt, in some men's 'looks'
that could well be feminine. Montesinos once again teaches us a man who is not
self-conscious about wearing transparencies, tulles or skirts; however, his
proposals are repetitive: we see the same thing over and over again, catwalk
after catwalk.
However, I recognize that the
Montesinos man is brave and innovative, full of light and color and eager to
put the world as a hunt, even though it is difficult to see a Montesinos / man
design on the streets sometime.
With his
usual flamenco show Francis Montesinos introduced a spring-summer 2017
collection in which dared with the androgynous attempt, in some 'looks' of man
which could be female. Montesinos one more time try to show us with no complex
in taking transparencies, tulle or skirts; However, their proposals are
repeated: we see the same thing over and over again.
Yet I recognize that
Montesinos's man is brave and innovative, full of light and color, and eager to
please the world by his hat but I foresee complicated to see any of his
proposals for men on the streets.